Isfahan Provincee

Isfahan or Eşfahān (historically also rendered as Ispahan, Old Persian Aspadana, Middle Persian Spahān, Persian: اصفهان ‎ Eṣfahān), located about 340 km south of Tehran, is the capital of Isfahan Province and Iran's third largest city (after Tehran and Mashhad). Isfahan has a population of 1,573,378 (2006 estimates).
The Naghsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The city also contains a wide variety of Islamic architectural sites ranging from the 11th century to the 19th.

Geography

The city is geographically located at 32°38′N 51°29′E, in the lush Zayandeh Rud plain, at the foothills of the Zagros mountain range. The city enjoys a temperate climate and regular seasons. No obstacle exists as far as 90 km north of Isfahan and cool northern winds blow from this direction. Isfahan is located on the main north-south and east-west routes crossing Iran. It is situated at 1590 meters above sea level. It receives an average of 355 mm of rain per year, making it similar to Denver, Colorado in terms of altitude and precipitation. The temperature ranges between 2 and 28 degrees Celsius. The record high temperature was 42 degrees Celsius and the record low was −19 degrees Celsius.
The southern and western approaches of Isfahan are mountainous and it is bordered northward and eastward by fertile plains. Thus, Isfahan's climate is varied and occasionally rainy, with a precipitation average varying between 100 and 150 mm.
Isfahan was once one of the largest cities in the world. It flourished from 1050 to 1722, particularly in the 16th century under the Safavid dynasty, when it become the capital of Persia for the second time in its history. Even today, the city retains much of its past glory. It is famous for its Islamic architecture, with many beautiful boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, mosques, and minarets. This led to the proverb Esfahān nesf-e jahān ast: "Esfahan is half of the world".
Of all Iranian cities, Isfahan is perhaps the most popular for tourists.

History

Prehistory

The history of Isfahan can be traced back to the Palaeolithic period. In recent Archaeological discoveries, archaeologist have found artifacts dating back to the Palaeolithic, Mesolithic, Neolithic, Bronze and Iron ages.

From the Elamites to the Arab conquest

Ancient Isfahan was part of the Elamite empire. Under the name of Aspandana it became one of the principal towns of the Median dynasty, when Iranian Medes settled there. Subsequently the province became part of the Achaemenid Empire and after the liberation of Iran from Macedonian occupation by the Arsacids, it became part of Parthian Empire. Isfahan was the centre and capital city of a large province, which was administered by Arsacid governors. In the Sassanid era, Isfahan was governed by "Espoohrans" or the members of seven noble Iranian families who had important royal positions, and served as the residence of these noble families as well. Moreover, in this period Isfahan was a military centre with strong fortifications. There were large populations of Jews and Christians concentrated around Isfahan at this time. The city was occupied by Arabs after the final defeat of Iranians.

The Islamic Era

Isfahan, like other cities of Iran, fell under the rule of Arabs until the Abbasid era, only being attended to by Al-Mansur. In the 10th century, under the Buwayhid Dynasty, Isfahan regained its importance. In the reign of Malik Shah I of the Seljuk dyansty, Isfahan was again selected as capital and commenced another golden age. In this period, Isfahan was one of the most thriving and important cities of the world. The famous Persian philosopher Avicenna lived and taught there in the 11th century.
This city was raided and massacred by The Mongols in the 13th century, followed by Timur in 1387. However, as the result of its suitable geographic situation, Isfahan flourished again especially in Safavid dynasty, which developed considerably.

The entrance to Shah Mosque or Shah Jame' Mosque in Isfahan. This mosque is the most glorious sign of flourishing architecture during the Safavid dynasty.
The Golden Age of Isfahan arrived in the 16th century under Shah Abbas the Great (1587-1629), who made it the new capital of the Safavid dynasty. During the reign of Shah Abbas I, who unified Persia, Isfahan reached its pinnacle of briskness. Isfahan had parks, libraries and mosques that amazed Europeans, who had not seen anything like this at home. The Persians called it Nesf-e-Jahan, half the world; meaning that to see it was to see half the world. In its heyday it was also one of the largest with a population of one million; 163 mosques, 48 religious schools, 1801 shops and 263 public baths.
In 1722, it was raided by the Afghans after a long siege, which left much of the city in ruins. Although the Afghans were a primary cause of Isfahan's decline, this can also be attributed to the development of maritime commerce by European merchants from such countries such as the Netherlands. Isfahan's wealth originated in its role as a chief waystation along the trans-Asia trade route, but trade dwindled as the cheaper sea routes increased in popularity for transporting commodities between Asia and Europe.

Culture

Architecture of Isfahan

The architecture of Isfahan is made up of eight traditional forms which taken together form the foundation in the same way that music was once based on a finite number of notes. These are modulated by the use of colors and textures to leaven the surfaces and are held together in an overall construction akin to that of a sonata in which connection leads to culmination through a transition space. To appreciate the skill of the architects and designers fully, it is necessary to have an appreciation of these fundamental concepts i.e. garden, platform, porch, gateway, dome, arched chamber, and minaret, although in the geometry and architecture of the buildings they are woven together to present a seamless whole. A full discussion of the underlying principles can be found in the paper entitled "The Alchemy of the Mosque", given to a joint meeting of the School of Architecture and the Islamic Society of the University of Manchester in 1997.

Isfahan today

Today Isfahan, the third largest city in Iran, produces fine carpets, textiles, steel, and handicrafts. Isfahan also has nuclear experimental reactors as well as facilities for producing nuclear fuel (UCF). Isfahan has one of the largest steel producing facilities in the entire region, as well as facilities for producing special alloys.
At Isfahan uranium is converted into Uranium hexafluoride UF6, which in its gaseous form is spun at high speed in the centrifuges to extract the fissile isotope. Isfahan is Iran's only domestic source of UF6. According to IAEA Iran is building hardened bunkers under Isfahan to protect UF6 production. (telegraph.co.uk January 25, 2006 1145)
The cities of Najaf-abad, Khaneh Isfahan, Khomeini-shahr, Shahin-shahr, Zarrin-shahr, and Fulad-e Mobarakeh all constitute the metropolitan city of Isfahan. The city has an international airport and is in the final stages of constructing its first Metro line.
Over 2000 companies are working in the area using Isfahan's economic, cultural, and social potentials. Isfahan contains a major oil refinery and a large airforce base. HESA, Iran's most advanced aircraft manufacturing plant (where the AN-140 aircraft is made), is located nearby.

Isfahan Atttractions:

ISFAHAN

Isfahan, Esfahan or ancient Aspadana has been the county city of Isfahan province for more than 900 years. In addition of being one of the finest art cities of the world and rich in history, Isfahan is also one of the largest industrial, agricultural, and handicraft manufacturer centers in Iran. It has long been known for its fine carpets, hand-printed textiles, and metalworks, chiefly filigree. Isfahan has been an exceptionally attractive city for tourists from all over the world. In Isfahan many cereals, bean products and much fruit, such as melons, apples and pomegranates are found. The almond and cherry orchards of Najafabad (in the suburbs of Isfahan) well repay a visit in early spring.

Bazaar

Dating back to Safavid period, this beautiful vaulted bazaar was named Bazaarcheh-ye Boland (High-Vaulted Bazaar), Bazaar-e Shahi, or Bazaar-e Sultani. Three hundred meters long, it was recently renovated and will provide any tourist with an unforgettable shopping tour. The entrance to the bazaar (also known as the Great Bazaar, Bazaar-e Bozorg) is a majestic gateway in keeping with the dimensions of the square, called Qaisarieh. Bazaar of Isfahan is a real labyrinth of domed streets that stretch into the old town. One is tempted to describe the bazaar as "the real Isfahan", because it is one of the biggest and most lively bazaars anywhere in the middle east. Like most Iranian bazaars, parts of this one are loosely divided into several interconnected corridors, each specializing in a particular trade or product.

Imam Square ( Naqsh-e Jahan )

Called Maydan-e Shah (the king's square), Shah Abbas built this large huge open square in 1612 on virgin ground where there used to be another square called Naqsh-e Jahan (Image of the world). One of the largest squares in the world and a majestic example of city planning, it was intended as a Polo ground, the Shah's court having a grandstand view from Ali Qapu palace. Many of the most interesting sites in Isfahan are clustered around the square, and it is a place you just keep coming back to. The Maiden is surrounded by two-story arcades and at the north end of the square, opposite the mosque, in the royal caravansary and bazaar, at the middle of the west side is the palace of Ali Qapu the seat of the Safavid government- and facing it, across the square, there is the private oratory of Shah Abbas, the mosque of Sheikh Lutfollah. Shops line the square many specialize in brass work and there is some interesting stuff among the gimcrack souvenirs and postcards.

Madraseh-e Chahar Bagh

This is a seminary constructed (1706-14) at the expense of the mother of the last Safavid king. It is a Madraseh (school) and a mosque at the same time. In order to finance the construction of the school, the Shah's mother got a large caravansary built nearby (recently rebuilt as the most famous luxury hotel in Iran, Abbasi Hotel), the income of which went to the Madraseh. The Madraseh is a noble and nice building, outshining any contemporary in Islam. The two minarets of the Madraseh are among the loveliest in Iran.

Sheikh Lutfollah Mosque

Sheikh Lutfollah mosque, a masterpiece of architecture and tile work, is a beautiful religious building. The building began in 1602 and completed in 1619 and was built in honor of the great Lebanese Sheikh Lutfollah, who was a sort of Islamic Billy Graham of his time. The enormous dome is supported by walls 170 cm thick, and its solidity is transmuted into lightness-one would even say fragility-by two features of the utmost tact and daring. The mosque also differs from all others in several respects. While turquoise, blue and pink predominate in the motifs on the facade, elsewhere, particularly on the dome, both inside and outside, the main color is yellow. The exterior surface of the dome is decorated with floral motifs and various Arabesque designs, and bears a fine inscription in Thulth writing style of white mosaic tiles set on a background of azure.

Bazaar and Qaisarieh Portal

"The Real Isfahan" is another expression uses for Qaisarieh Bazaar. Because it is one of the most lively and crowded bazaars in Isfahan, full of interconnected corridors for particular trades. The entrance of the bazaar is a majestic and elegance gateway, decorated with tile work mosaic and Isfahan astrological sign Sagittarius, shown as a Chimera, on it.The bazaar was made by Shah Abbas in Safavid period because of his strong interest in trading.

Palace of Ali Qapu

In the Safavid period, this glorious gate (the literal translation of its name) made by order of Shah Abbas I. The palace, of the early 17th century AD and the center of government, was made into the first skyscraper of Iran with a marvelous view. 48 m high from the ground level, with an imposing portal. The lofty Ivan of the third story has 18 wooden columns, a carved panel ceiling with gilded decorations and mirrors, and a large marble and copper basin, belonging to the reign of Shah Abbas II. The paintings and sculptures are still being used as models by the miniaturists and engravers now working in the bazaar.

Sio Se Pol Bridge

The bridge is an extraordinary structure 300 m in length and 14 m in width, serving both as bridge and dam. It is a famous bridge and traditionally a number of Christian and Islamic ceremonies used to be held on both sides of this bridge. It dates back to the first Shah Abbas (Safavid period) time and it was built by supervision of his well known commander "Allahverdikhan".

Imam Mosque

This place is one of the finest and most stunning buildings in the world. The mosque represents the culmination of a thousand years of mosque building and a magnificent example of architecture, stone enrgraving, and tile work in Iran, with a majesty and splendor that places it among the world's greatest buildings. The portal, almost a building in itself, forms a welcoming embrace, inviting and guiding the throngs outside into the refuge, security and the renewal the mosque provides. In fact, it is the most thrilling example of human artifice that could be imagined. Its height amounts to 30 m, the flanking minarets are 42 m tall-with the sanctuary minarets higher still, 45 m. A mosaic tile inscription can be seen on the main portal of the mosque, which dates back 1616 A.D.

Jam'eh Mosque

Jam'eh Mosque(or friday mosque), a world cultural heritage, is the most ancient and in some ways the most interesting building in the city, and hence in Iran. It was built in the late11th and early 12th century as a focus for the town. Changes and additions were made in subsequent periods. Therefore, it is a landmark in the evolution of Iranian sacred architecture during a period of one thousand years. It is attractive for the tile works of fifteenth century in the great courtyard and Mehrab of Oljaitu.

Palace of Chehel Sutun

The Chehel Sutun was built as an official court and a reception hall by Shah Abbas II (1647 AD). At its simplest it is only a roof-high porch constituting the facade. The name means The Forty Columns, although there are actually 18. A reflecting pool is provided to see the other 18. A more mundane explanation is that " 40" was once used synonymously with many in Persian, and still is in some quarters. Walls of the main hall of Chehel Sutun are decorated with six remarkable wall paintings, the paintings of the Chehel Sutun palace have been created in mainly two styles Iranian style and foreign or european style.

Vank Cathedral

The beautiful all Savior's Cathedral in New Julfa, locally known as the Vank cathedral, begun in 1606 and is the historic focal point of the Armenian church in Iran. Over the foundations of that small church was built the magnificent high altar of the cathedral. The exterior of the church is unexciting, but the interior is richly decorated with oil paintings of people sacred to the Armenians, and shows the mixture of styles - Islamic Persian and Christian European- that characterizes most churches in Iran. The soaring walls and splendid arches and the domes of the building are intended to glorify the creator. From the tiled lower portions of the walls to the ceiling are horizontally covered with oil paintings and gilded carvings in representation of the God's revelation throughout the old and new Testaments.

NAEEN

Naeen is one of the oldest towns in Isfahan province. It is believed that the name of this city is derived from the reed which is a swamp plant. Another belief is that this name is related to one of Nooha's Sons (Nooha is a prophet in the old times even before Zoroaster who lived more than a thousand years) who was the founder of this town. Naeen is very interesting and spectacular and has many beautiful historical works.

Jam'eh Mosque of Naeen

As a famous historic monument of Iran and also known as the Alavian mosque is a construction of the 10th century A.D. The monument possesses eleven arcades with semi-circular vaults. Upon the walls, the vaults, and the pillars, there are various octagonal and other geometric decorations worked in plaster moldings, which are particularly worthy of note for their simple charm and their deep setting. The Friday Mosque of Naeen is also famous for its Manbar (pulpit) and a wooden door, both of which are beautifully carved and both rank among Iran's historic relics of considerable artistic value. Upon the pulpit there is an inscription in Naskh style, carved on a floral background which dates back to 1311 A.D.

Abyaneh

Abyaneh is a beautiful historic village at the foot of Karkas mountain. This is a village of living traditions, architectural styles (all in red clay), and probably the most interesting example of human adaptation to nature, wherein one can transcend the boundaries of time and space and experience the ancient civilization and culture of Iran. The village is compact, with narrow and sloped lanes, and houses located on the slope as if they are placed on a stairway. Here, the roofs of some houses are used to serve as the courtyard for other houses higher up on the slope. The language spoken by the literate people of Abyaneh is Parthian Pahlavi. The women's traditional costume consisting of a scarf with floral motifs and pleated pants, is particularly attractive. There are a good number of old houses in Abyaneh, among them the homes of Gholam Nader Shah and Nayeb Hossein Kashi. In addition to the Zoroastrian fire temple (from the Sassanian period) in the village, there are three castles, a pilgrimage site, three mosques named Hajatgah, Porzaleh, and Jam'eh, all worth a careful visit. Altogether there are eight mosques in the village.

Fin Garden

Perhaps it is the finest surviving example in Iran which creates the contrast between the Kavir region and the greenery of the well-tended oasis below the adjoining Karkass mountain. A major part of Kashan's water was supplied by the perennial source of Suleimanieh spring in the garden. References to Fin in historical sources go back to more than 1000 years. Designed for Shah Abbas I, this classical Persian vision of paradise has always been prized for its natural springs and still contains the remains of its two-storey palace set around a pool. The garden has other Safavid royal buildings, although they were substantially rebuilt, and others were added in the Qajar period. The building housing Kashan museum was built in 1968, in harmony with the historical monuments within the garden, covering 900 sq. m, and comprising 8 vast galleries, wherein items from Iranian culture and civilization in various periods of history are displayed. Fin was the scene of a tragedy in 1852, when Mirza Taqi Khan known as Amir Kabir, the Grand Vizier of Nasser Od-Din Shah, was murdered there. He is considered a national hero and vanguard of modern Iran.

Tappeh Sialk

The mound of Tappeh Sialk is the site of a prehistoric culture which was dated to Ghirshman who excavated the Tappeh in the 30s and later, to the second half of the 15th millennium BC. Later explorations showed that the site is more than 7000 years old. The site (with the adjoining cemetery) revealed a large number and variety of bronze tools, painted pottery and domestic implements of clay (statuettes), glassware (vessels), stone and bone (ornamental objects), human and animal figures from as early as the 4th millennium BC, and it is believed to have been first settled in the 5th millennium or earlier.

Borujerdis Old Houses

The present premises of Kashan Cultural Heritage Department, the Borujerdis old House was built nearly 130 years ago. A vast rectangular courtyard is opened up to the visitors after passing an entrance portico and a narrow corridor. Reception ceremonial , and residential halls and rooms are arranged on the four sides of the courtyard. Provision of well- proportioned spaces , nicely-designed as Baad- Girs (wind towers) to fit the building , particular paintings by the famous Iranian painter Kamal Ol- Molk Ghaffari, all are considered as art masterpieces.